How to make an otg cable with additional power. Scheme of assembling an OTG flash drive from a regular USB, pinout and pinout secrets of the OTG cable. What is OTG

Not all old tablets support the function of connecting a flash drive or modem, but I will tell you how to outwit them and connect a flash drive, modem and even a hard drive to them.

Today I want to bring to your attention OTG - an adapter.

First I want to tell you what is OTG? This is a way to connect to your tablet or phone that supports OTG function, printer, flash drive and even hard drive. This connection is also called USB-host.

You can also connect a keyboard or mouse to your gadget, if the gadget supports such a function.

And so, to create this miracle cable, we need:
Old USB extension cable
Micro USB connector (you can get it from a regular USB cable for your device)
Soldering iron and soldering accessories

And so, let's go, in order for us to make such a cable, we will need to connect the 4th pin to the 5th pin of the micro USB connector

We need to get to the fourth pin and connect it with a jumper to the GND wire as shown in the picture.

After we connect the 4th and 5th contacts with a jumper, our gadget will act as an active device and will understand that another passive device is going to be connected to it. Until we put a jumper, the gadget will continue to act as a passive device and will not see your flash drives.

But that's not all, to connect a hard drive to a phone or tablet, this adapter will not be enough for us. To connect devices whose consumption is more than 100mA, namely 100mA, the port of your device can give out, we will need to connect additional power to our OTG cable, which should be enough to make your hard drive work.

Here is a diagram of such an adapter

Now it's time to start collecting
We take an old USB extension cable and cut it not very far from the 2.0 connector, since the current is only 100mA to avoid large losses. Cut off approximately in the place as shown in the photo

After we clean our wire

I connected with a drop of solder 4 and 5 pins.

Well, here is our entire cable assembly

It remains only to check the performance, take the tablet, insert the “adapter” and insert the USB flash drive into it, everything works, as the flashing LED on the USB flash drive and the tablet identifying the USB flash drive tell us.

The story of how difficult it was to connect a 4g modem, flash drives and a mouse to a tablet, and even not let it run out of power. Disassembly, voltage tests, Oriko cables, a good thing, I recommend, not item 18. All under the cut)

Hey! Today on the review mcroUSB-OTG hub with additional power. The review on it was already on the Muska, but very brief, I'll try to supplement it. It all started when I gave my parents a tablet Prestigio Visconte Quad (8"", Intel Atom Z3735G, 1GB RAM, 16GB ROM, Windows 8.1\10). What was needed was a windows tablet so that the owners would be as comfortable as possible to use, as on their laptop in general. I bought the tablet from a friend, so the equipment was far from the original: some kind of frivolous 1A charge and a microUSB cable was the first one that came to hand. As a result, during active use (wi-fi, online video, bluetooth mouse), the tablet was discharged while being charged. Moreover, the modem connected via the 4g otg cable did not start, it either appeared in the system or fell off again at the stage of installing firewood. Thanks to the community on w3bsit3-dns.com, I found out that the modem stupidly lacks current. And the problem of survival with one microUSB is devoted to the whole. And I started making cables with additional power according to w3bsit3-dns.com schemes.

Scheme using scotch locks

Hub option

Everything worked, the modem started up, but it was inconvenient to use such cables, and the design itself did not last long. It was decided to kill all birds with one stone to purchase a factory version and the choice fell on Acasis H-027. I immediately liked its strict design and modest, but the original Acasis marking, which looks like it would have been written Asus, I would not doubt at all. I chose the cheapest lot at that time and received it in 37 days. There were no instructions in the kit (although some are put). All packaging is a bubble wrap and a bag.



The device can operate in three modes:
1. Only charging
2.otg+charging
3. Only otg
There is a switch to switch between them.

On my tablet, these modes worked like this:
1.otg+charge
2.otg+charging
3. Only otg
The body of the device consists of two halves, fastened by the tenon-groove method. During disassembly, the spikes suffer and heroically fall off. Everything inside is clean and tidy.




The hub is controlled by a fe 1.1s chip, very cheap, it can be found in many usb 2.0 hubs from Ali, from very good models to copies that literally fall apart in your hands. Often found in inexpensive Chinese tablets.


The light indicator signals that the power is connected. Implemented not very sensibly - just a hole in the case.


The Otg-mode works flawlessly, I did not measure the speed of copying from drives, everything is normal there. "otg+charge" mode with Orico colorful 0.5m cable
with three flash drives


with screw and flash drives


With a 4g modem, everything is also correct. Basically, to power the tablet and the hub, I use the Robiton charger and the Orico microUSB cable, 2m long.


In the maximum possible version: memory + 2 meters of cable + hub with a screw, modem and mouse, the tablet is slowly, but charging, otg works i.e. the hub fulfills its purpose. However, let's take measurements.

without a hub with a load of 1A

with hub and load 1A

If you have an extra USB flash drive, you can easily convert it into an OTG USB flash drive so you can plug it into your smartphone or tablet without having to carry a USB to OTG adapter around. Of course, you can just buy such a device online or in a store, but I would like to make my own, since it is easy and I have all the necessary components and an OTG cable diagram.

There is a risk of damaging your flash drive or smartphone / tablet, be careful when laying and soldering wires, if possible, it is better to check it on a cheap smartphone for the first time. I warned you.

To desolder OTG you will need:

• Regular USB 2.0 flash drive with solder connector (free)
• USB-OTG adapter (should cost less than 100 rubles)
• Continuity multimeter
• soldering iron
• Basic soldering and multimeter skills
• Knife (to open flash drive)
• Silicone sealant, Sugru (rubber putty), hot glue or insulating glue
• Cutting tool
• Electric drill or dremel with 2mm bit
• (Optional) USB connector (male) type-A to check the pinout

Step 1: Choose the right USB flash drive

The first thing you need to do is choose a flash drive with a solder connector. Not all USB drives are the same and the only way to find out is to open it. Use a knife or screwdriver for this.

[Photo 2-5] is a Chinese flash drive in a stainless steel case. As you can see, this ultra-thin flash drive is stuffed with plastic, there is no soldered connector.

[Photo 6-8] is another flash drive from China. She has a board with a connector, I will use it. Please note that the "dirty" solder in the connector is due to the fact that I have already soldered this flash drive.

Step 2: Cut the USB-OTG Adapter

Show 4 more images

[Photo 1-2] On my model of USB-OTG adapter, I can simply pull back the USB port bezel to show you what's inside.

[Photo 3-5] Measure the length of cable needed for your USB drive. Don't cut the cable too close to either end, we'll need both. The yellow flash drive is just an example.

[Photo 6-9] Using a cutting tool, carefully open the wire and separate the inner four wires. This must be done so that they can fit inside the flash drive when you assemble it.

Step 3: Checking the pinout of the OTG adapter

Now USB-OTG adapters use 4 wires. Two for power and two for data. You need to make sure you're soldering the correct wire or you could damage your $500 smartphone due to a $2 project.

Using a multimeter and the USB connector (female) that we just cut off, we can determine the pinout of the OTG cable. Usually the colors are: red, white, green, black, but not always in that order, and maybe not at all, you will have other colors.

Pay attention to the OTG pinout diagram, which is in the photo, if you use the input connector (mother), then the color order will be reversed!

[Photo 4-5] I used the male (output) USB connector to make it easier to check. On the Internet, it costs less than a hundred rubles.

[Photo 6-7] This is my multimeter reading when it is in continuity test mode. Pay attention to the correct orientation of the wires and connector. Double check the order and refer to the USB pinout diagram if in doubt.

Step 4: Solder

Now it's time to solder the wire. Get your soldering iron and solder ready. Solder all 4 wires.

DOUBLE CHECK THAT THERE IS NO SHORT CIRCUIT, not on one of the wires you just soldered. Also make sure the wires are not too close together. At the current stage, it is impossible to check the correctness of the pinout, so if you feel that you have made a mistake, then it is better to stop than to damage your smartphone or tablet.

Step 5: Preparing and Assembling the Case

[Photos 1-3] This is a simple step. First you need to drill through the case of your USB drive. This is done so that the OTG cable can come out of the back of the flash drive. I used a 2mm drill, but I think a 3mm would work better.

[Photo 4-6] The next step is to make sure that the insides of the flash drive are not moving. Each time you open it and assemble it back, there is a chance that the former density of the assembly will disappear. Therefore, I decided to use double-sided tape so that nothing moves. You can use Blu-tack, Sugru, hot glue or something else.

I also covered the wires near the connector with silicone sealant so I didn't have to worry about them touching each other and causing a short circuit. This is optional, but I highly recommend it. I don't know if Sugru or Blu-tack has insulating properties, but if you're in doubt, silicone sealant and hot glue will work fine.

Step 6: That's it!

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When the work is done, let's first insert the USB OTG drive into the computer. The reason I chose the computer is because the motherboard of most computers has short circuit protection.

Then I checked the drive on the tablet, through the USB port and OTG. Everything worked great. In the end, I inserted it into my android smartphone (LG G4), everything still worked fine, the device was displayed in the file manager. Keep in mind that most Android devices do not support the NTFS file system, so it's best to format your flash drive to FAT32.

Here you go! Homemade OTG-USB drive works! And it was very cheap!

I want to warn you, since this is a simple "parallel" wiring, NEVER ATTEMPT TO CONNECT BOTH ENDS OF THE DEVICE [PHOTO 7].

[Photo 8-10]. Now you know how to make your own OTG USB drive. Here are photos of my homemade OTG hub. It's made with the same disassembly and soldering method, even the cable is the same. I've been using it for over a year without any problems.

I talked about choosing a tablet, and in particular about such a function that I need, such as the ability to connect various USB devices to it, such as: flash drives, a card reader (and, accordingly, memory cards of different formats) and so on.

So, having bought a MoveO! TPC-7HG, I suddenly ran into a problem that was completely unexpected for me. The thing is that this tablet has only a mini-USB connector. In itself, this was not a surprise or a problem for me - on the contrary, it is easier to find a standard mini-USB cable in order to replace, for example, a failed charging cable, if necessary. An unpleasant surprise for me was that in my town nowhere - ANYWHERE! - mini-USB OTG cable was not sold! It didn't come with the kit either. Going to all possible and impossible stores, I came to the conclusion that, perhaps, it would be easier and faster to make such a cable with your own hands.

ATTENTION!!! EVERYTHING YOU DO - YOU DO AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!

And now some theory. You can’t just take and solder together a mini-USB plug with a piece of wire from one cable and the so-called USB-mother plug from another cable. No, that is, of course, you can solder, but just connect to the tablet and make it work with this cable, not a single device will work. And here's the thing.

A standard mini-USB cable has a five-pin plug:
001.

Contacts are numbered as follows:
002.

But a standard USB cable has only 4 wires. Where did the fifth wire go? Yes, nowhere. It simply does not solder to the connector limit switches!

The purpose and color marking of wires in a regular USB cable are as follows:

1 - Red VBUS (+5V) +5 Volts of DC voltage with respect to GND. The maximum current is 500 mA.

2 - White D-(-Data)

3 - Green D+ (+Data)

4 - Black GND - common wire, "ground", "minus", 0 Volt

The main difference between the USB OTG cable is the plug. In a mini-USB OTG cable (as well as in a micro-USB OTG cable), pins 4 and 5 are closed to each other. In a regular (not OTG) data cable, a wire is not soldered to the 4th pin of the plug. This plug is called USB-BM mini (micro). If pins 4 and 5 are soldered together, then such a plug will be called USB-AM mini (micro). It is by the presence of a jumper between 4 and 5 pins in the USB-AM micro plug that the tablet determines that a peripheral device is going to be connected to it. If this jumper is not present, then it will itself act as a passive device and will not react to connecting any kind of USB devices to it.

So, we got acquainted with the theory - we proceed to practice.

We take a regular mini-USB cable, carefully open its connector with a clerical knife. As a result, we get the following set of young technicians:
003.

Next, we need to connect the 4th and 5th pins of the plug. This can be done, for example, by carefully peeling off the sealing plastic on the back of the connector. But here two unpleasant surprises await. Firstly, it turns out to be not so easy to do without damaging anything, because the contact group is poured on the conscience - you pick out the hell. The second "surprise" is the short contact of the 4th contact (forgive me my pun!), which makes it extremely inconvenient to solder something to it:
004.

Having honestly ruined the first cable, I take on the second one, but I deal with it a little differently. Having opened and disassembled the mini-USB connector, I use the same clerical knife to carefully scrape off the plastic in the area of ​​​​the 4th and 5th contacts right up to the contacts themselves:
005.

Now we take a soldering iron and put a neat jumper between these two contacts with a tin.
006.

The only thing to watch here is to keep the contact pad as flat as possible, and both from this side - since in this case our connector may simply not fit back into its metal case, and from the opposite (that is, actually from the side of the contacts) - since unevenness there can lead to bending of the contact group of the tablet socket, and this is already fraught. Having made a jumper, care must be taken to avoid a short circuit of freshly soldered contacts with the connector body. To do this, I used such an indispensable tool as Poxipol.
007.

Please note that only TRANSPARENT Poxipol has electrical insulating means. The metal Poxipol has quite conductive characteristics and, of course, it cannot be used in this case.

After Poxipol hardens, the excess can be cleaned off with a knife, and the USB connector can be assembled:
008.

In principle, it would be nice to fill it with Poxipol from above, but I recommend doing this after the cable has been tested for operability.

And cut off the USB-mother connector with a piece of wire from it:
010.

Now we only need to connect the two received cables (one with a mini-USB connector, the second with a USB-mother connector) to each other.

First, we “dress” one of the wires with heat shrink:
011.

We take the soldering iron again:
012.

And carefully solder (from the word "solder" and not "drink"!) the wires in the cables.
013.

To isolate the wires from each other, I used the same Poxipol. And when he froze, he put everything together on top with heat shrink:
014.

The end result is this cable.

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